Chaos in the Lineup

Let's keep Maui in our hearts, after the camera and TV trucks have left, people are still without homes and businesses. If all you can do is send love and aloha, that’s enough.

In an interview with Wayne Lynch, he came right out and said “If you don’t know your history and you don’t understand your culture, you end up with chaos”. I’d like to back this up with the last thought I put in Addicted to Joy from the true Father of Surfing Duke Kahanamoko, who said, “Just take your time, waves come. Let the other guy go, catch another one”. Chaos happens when everyone runs on their own ideas. There is an amazing stoke to surfing, and it’s difficult to keep things in perspective at times. In the crazy world that is the line up many things happen, but everyone in the line up is there for one reason, an ultimate ride.

How do you end chaos and still achieve that stoke and ride? I offer the word, respect. When the waves are right and there are a lot of people in the water, things can get messy. If we respect each other, if we are kind to each other in the water, I assure you that your experience will be more fulfilling. Surfing is a very singular experience even in a crowded line up. Riding a wave is a dance with nature, a delicate balance between human skill and the ocean's power. As you catch a wave and glide effortlessly, time seems to stand still. You enter a state of flow, where your mind is fully absorbed in the present moment, and every movement becomes intuitive and graceful, and then it’s over. Let’s respect each other, allowing this fantastic shared experience to happen.

Another thing I’d like to suggest that might help end the chaos in the line up is actually asking permission of the ocean, a radical concept but one passed to me by Paul Strauch Jr.. Let him tell you in this 12 second video from ATJ.

Surfing can be a form of spiritual renewal, a way to recharge your soul and find solace in the midst of life's challenges. It offers a sanctuary where you can reflect, meditate, and find peace amidst the chaos of the world. In essence, the experience of surfing is a profound and multifaceted journey that goes beyond the physical act. It is a communion with the natural world, a dance with the elements, and a source of boundless joy that resonates deep within, reminding you of the profound and enduring connection between humans and the planet we call home.

So, rather than surfing being a competition about “who got to the wave first”, let’s embrace the connections of being a singular individual, with the ocean, and the elements. Let’s celebrate that fact that we are allowed to participate in this activity that tunes our bodies and minds to what is really important, a betterment of our spirit. I’ll leave you with this thought from Darrick Doerner: