I was going to tell the story of how balsa wood was incorporated into surfboards this week, but life took a turn with a fast moving fire on the Island of Maui.
I hope I can offer a glimmer of hope.
In my last interview with Paul Strauch Jr., we talked about the changes that had come to Hawaii from the 50’s when he grew up on the beach of Waikiki. At that time, there were only three hotels. I asked him what he thought of all the changes to Oahu, the beach, and the community, and he said “When I stand here and look out at the waves, it’s still the same as it was.” That’s a beautiful statement, so I offer to the residents of Maui, stand and look at the sea, try not to look at the horror behind you, look at the sea and know that healing will come
.
The island of Maui was the ancestral home of the Hawaiian Kings - it is paradise.
Surfing has such deep ties to Hawaii, it’s hard to think what the impact of the fires will ultimately be. There was no early warning. Here in California we have faced the same issues in the past few years. The Camp Fire that destroyed the town of Paradise, and closer to my home, the fire storms in Big Sur and the Santa Cruz mountains were devastating.
On Wednesday the 9th, Darrick Doerner texted me from his home on Oahu and told me he was heading for Maui to do relief work and help where he could…. the Aloha Spirit in action. I heard from him late last night and the news wasn’t good, as we all know and can see on the news. Of course, we aren’t getting the full story as communications are limited. He told me the heartbreaking information that there were still thousands missing.
A lesson for me in this film is that we are all connected to each other and to all living things. We are directly connected to the ocean, and how it brings us life and renewal. The residents of Lahaina fled into her waters for protection. Now it’s time for renewal.
In my chat with Darrick he told me he hadn’t been to bed or had a shower for four days. He sounded exhausted, but there was light in his voice. He told me when he went to the airport to check in for his flight back to Oahu, the ticket agent said “Mr. Doerner, we’re comping your turn flight” …..Aloha in action.
So, now it’s time to help. If you have ever visited there and felt the magic, chip in. If you have friends there that have been directly impacted, help them. There are many agencies that can direct funds to the proper place. Find the connection that speaks to you, listen with your heart, and give freely.
Theses are friends of ATJ, help if you can Dayan Kai…a fabulous musician on Maui
https://dayankai.com
Pat Rawson surfboards, Pat gave a great interview for the film, order a surfbaord
https://www.rawsonsurfboards.com
Text Hawaii to 707070 help is you can
Back to the real world next time.
If you want to see the whole story, watch the documentary Addicted to Joy.
I look forward to our next time together.
If you enjoy the stories, share this with your friends!