Surfing's Origins - Darrick Doerner
Part 2
I want to make a quick announcement about Addicted to Joy….the film and all the interviews are now FREE.
About a year ago I got a comment that said, “this movie should be free like surfing.” So, I give you all the gift of this movie. It’s given me so much, and I hope it brings you the same joy that it has brought me.
I want to start by acknowledging a tragedy that occurred last week. Tamayo Perry, a lifeguard, waterman, and Pipeline expert from North Shore, was killed in a shark attack. Darrick described him as one of the finest watermen you'll ever meet. Rest in Aloha, Tamayo. The ocean can be a dangerous place, so we should never take for granted all the blessings it brings. Master Paul Strauch Jr. teaches us a valuable lesson through this incident.:
Darrick has been an incredible guide for me on this journey. He has corrected me when I've had misconceptions and led me to some amazing adventures. I remember being in Hawaii and wanting to spend some time with Dick Brewer. Darrick directed me down some crazy country roads until I thought I was possibly in trouble. We pulled up to a motorhome, and Darrick said "wait here." It was where Dick was staying at the time. Darrick went inside, and I busied myself with checking cameras and mics, trying to be ready. I waited about 30 minutes until Darrick returned with a "no go.”
My adventure with Darrick continued. One night, during filming, the house next to his was hosting a Hawaiian Wedding Party. The distance between the houses couldn’t have been more than 4 feet. The neighbors had two DJs who were both playing music quite loudly. We were shouting at each other in his house - too much fun. His home is a museum filled with trophies and other memorabilia. Here’s one of his Eddie Aikau trophies in the window at sunrise.
Derrick has been involved in a number of films and television shows. Besides being a principal in ATJ, he has worked on Baywatch, Step Into Liquid, and Riding Giants. He also served as James Bond’s stunt double in Die Another Day. What a warrior!
Darrick played a crucial role in involving surfers and shapers in Larry Fuller's unique wood surfboard project. I might feel like I'm using too many images, but each one is a part of the journey. Here's a picture of Darrick in his front yard with the board that Kelly Slater had ridden earlier in the week. The smile on his face says it all.
Darrick has saved countless lives as a lifeguard and water safety expert. He was the person who told me that I wasn't fit enough to do water photography, and I think he saved my life. Darrick has roots in the Monterey area, and I remember a long beach walk we took looking for sea glass. The wisdom he imparted to me on that and several other occasions has helped guide my life. When we were on the North Shore, I asked for a group picture, and true to his word, while my back was turned to the ocean taking the picture, Darrick's eyes never left the ocean behind me.
I will explore Darrick's deep connection to the ocean and his son Tiger. I was profoundly moved by their love, and I am eager to share their story with you. Aloha.
I’d like to thank you all for reading Wood Water Soul. We’d like to announce we have moved Addicted to Joy to a new streaming service, we have some very cool things planned for the future, (check out the shirts, and coffee cups, tote bags and water bottles )and we’re excited to share them with you. We will donate $1.00 of the sale of each shirt to SHACC Surfing Heritage and Culture Center.Please share this Blog with a fellow surfer, from or with a friend that needs so Joy in their lives. I invite you to watch, Aloha.