Surfing's Origins - Donald Takayama
When this film/story began it revolved around a surfer/shaper with a vision, and that person was Larry Fuller. Larry introduced me to the legendary work of Donald Takayama. There is no way I can do the work, innovations, and knowledge of the ocean that Donald possessed the justice he deserves. I wish I would have had the chance to meet him. Born in 1943, he grew up in Waikiki, Hawaii, and began surfing at a young age. Takayama's skill and innovation in the water made him a standout surfer in the 1960s and 1970s.
When Larry started his career he worked under surfer and shaper Jim Phillips in San Diego County. Larry describes working with Jim in this excerpt for Addicted To Joy.
After Larry’s time with Jim, he worked with Donald. Larry has a unique talent at sourcing old timbers and reclaiming them into wood that can be used for building traditional surfboards. Donald was all in on using Larry’s unique talent to acquire to wood to build some very special, beautiful boards.
Donald came to the mainland when he was 13 to work for Dale Velzey and Hap Jacobs. After a few years Velzey and Jacobs split, and Donald stayed with Jacobs. Here’s Dale Velzey’s card from his solo shop.
In 1966 Donald moved to Bing surfboards where, with Harold Iggy, he helped design the Weber Performer. In the following clip, Pat Rawson and Tommy Maus talk about their work with Donald. The clip from ATJ starts with World Champion Tom Carroll on a Pat Rawson shape.
One of the boards that Larry is most proud of is a Donald Takayama Hot Curl. This clip from Larry’s archive shows Donald glassing while Larry narrates. This clips ends with the beginning of a very scared blessing of one of Donald’s boards by Tom Pohaku Stone in the film. There is real magic in what follows:
Unfortunately, Donald Takayama passed away in 2012, but his impact on surfing continues to be felt today. He is remembered as a true pioneer and icon in the world of surfing.
I’d like to thank you all for reading Wood Water Soul. We’d like to announce we have moved Addicted to Joy to a new streaming service, we have some very cool things planned for the future, (check out the shirts )and we’re excited to share it with you. We will donate $1.00 of the sale of each shirt to SHACC Surfing Heritage and Culture Center.Please share this Blog with a fellow surfer, from or with a friend that needs so Joy in their lives. I invite you to watch, Aloha.