The Surfer's Connection to Water: A Deep Dive into the Oceanic Bond
Maui remains in a rebuilding process; it’s a long process and nothing is ever the same again. Please send all the aloha you can to this part of paradise.
The water sounds huge from my house this morning and it got me thinking about the water connection. Surfers share a unique and profound connection with the element of water. Beyond a mere sport, surfing is a way of life that embodies a deep and symbiotic relationship with the ever-changing, powerful, and beautiful ocean. This connection is not just physical but deeply spiritual, psychological, and emotional. In this exploration, we'll dive into the depths of the surfer's connection to water.
The Elemental Dance:
Surfing is fundamentally an elemental dance, a dance between the surfer and the waves, where the stage is the vast and dynamic canvas of the ocean. The very act of riding waves is an intricate choreography between human and nature - a harmonious blend of skill and surrender. Surfers learn to read the language of the sea and to anticipate its moods and rhythms. This connection with the elements makes them acutely aware of the natural world, and this awareness often extends beyond the surfboard and the wetsuit. Here’s Wayne Lynch From ATJ
Meditation in Motion:
Surfing, for many, is a form of moving meditation. As they paddle out into the lineup, focus is sharpened, the mind clears, and life's complexities recede. There's a sense of being fully present in the here and now. The rhythmic rise and fall of the waves create a soothing cadence that quiets the noise of modern life. It's a space where surfers can find a sense of inner calm and mental clarity that few other activities offer.
A Spiritual Connection:
Surfers often describe their relationship with water as a spiritual one. The ocean, with its vastness and mystery, symbolizes an unknown yet inviting force. It's a place of awe and humility. Riding a wave is akin to a spiritual experience, as they connect with something larger than themselves, surrendering to the flow and becoming part of a greater energy. Here’s Paul Strauch Jr. from Addicted to Joy
Embracing Impermanence:
Water, by its very nature, is ever-changing. Waves rise, crash, and dissipate. Every wave is different everyday. Surfing teaches the acceptance of impermanence, a profound lesson in going with the flow. Surfers learn to adapt, to accept what the ocean provides on any given day, and to appreciate the uniqueness of each wave and every moment. This philosophy often extends to life off the board, helping surfers navigate the ups and downs of life with grace.
Physical Connection:
Surfers are in constant physical contact with the water, whether paddling or riding a wave. This tactile connection enhances their awareness of its temperature, texture, saltiness, and energy. They feel the push and pull of the currents and understand the ocean's temperament through their skin and muscles. The sensation of water against the body becomes an intimate part of their daily existence. The physical connection doesn’t stop at 60, many continue to surf into their 80’s. During my first interview with Rene Yater he disclosed at 82 that he still goes on surfing trips.
Environmental Advocacy:
Given their profound connection to water, surfers often become passionate environmental advocates. They witness firsthand the impacts of pollution, climate change, and over-development on the ocean. This connection fosters a strong sense of responsibility to protect the fragile ecosystems they hold dear. Many surfers actively engage in conservation efforts, helping to preserve the very element that brings so much joy. Surfrider Foundation is a wonderful community in this regard.
Community and Camaraderie:
Surfing fosters an incredible sense of community. Surfers gather at breaks, share stories, and watch out for one another in the water. This shared connection to water transcends boundaries of age, nationality, and language. It's a universal language, a bond that unites individuals in a way that few other activities can.
In conclusion, the surfer's connection to water runs deep, embracing the physical, mental, emotional, and even the spiritual. This unique relationship with the ocean not only enriches lives but also fosters a profound respect for the natural world. Through the act of surfing, surfers become stewards of the oceans, advocating for their protection and preservation, as they continue to ride the waves that have shaped their existence.