Wood Water & Soul- On being a craftsman
It's not only surfboards.
I write this on the day surfing Legend Mike Hynson passed away. I got to meet him one time, and he had the same effect on me as Pete Rose. He was larger than life to me. He was one of the stars of Bruce Brown’s immortal film Endless Summer. This film and the Gidget movies brought surfing to the world. Endless Summer proclaimed the search for the perfect wave. They were surfers, traveling the world in button-down shirts, sometimes wearing ties. How things have changed. Mike was nice to me, but I knew I was in the presence of a true Master Craftsman. RIP Mike, thank you for your enormous contribution to surfing. Also, on this day, fire rages in Pacific Palisades (my home for 2 years) and many other areas of Southern California. Our thoughts turn to those who have lost all and those who are bravely defending against this monster. I got married on the beach in Malibu in 1984. This is a photo from Malibu in happier times; it will never be the same.
I was talking with Larry Fuller over the holidays, and he expressed his concern that there were fewer and fewer craftsmen available to finish wooden surfboards to museum specifications. Redwood and sequoia can be tricky, even trickier when the wood has been soaked in red wine for 100 years. As I have thought about it, I hope we are not facing this crisis in areas beyond surfboard building.
What does it mean to be a craftsman? To be a craftsman means to possess a deep dedication to mastering a particular skill, trade, or art form through practice, attention to detail, and a commitment to quality. A craftsman approaches their work with care, precision, and pride, often aiming to create something that is not only functional but also aesthetically pleasing or meaningful. I think there are at least 7 things that a craftsman requires.
Skill, Knowledge, and Experience
Dedication to Quality
Creativity and Artistry
Patience and Perseverance
Pride in Work
Connection to Artistic Tradition
Problem-Solving
Being a craftsman is as much about a mindset as it is about physical skill. It’s about striving for mastery, finding joy, and contributing something meaningful and enduring to the world.
It’s the reason I named the film Addicted to Joy. It’s about a specific discipline, but it’s really about finding joy in the work you do. I am fortunate to be able to work around many Masters in their craft. A guitar maker (luthier) certainly holds true to the above requirements, as does a woodworker of any kind. One of the owners of the mill where much of the filming for ATJ is Dean Cooley, below is an interview with Dean, it’s about 4 minutes long but worth viewing. The takeaway from Dean is that at the end of the day, you made something you are proud of with your hands.
I hope in the world that we create, we leave room for craftspeople who can solve problems and create things of beauty and lasting permanence.
I appreciate you taking the time to read this, and I hope you enjoy the film and all of the full-length interviews. Aloha.
I want to thank you all for reading Wood Water Soul. Please share this Blog with a fellow surfer or with a friend who needs some Joy in their lives. I invite you to watch, Addicted to Joy for free, Aloha.